Okay, where did I leave off?
Yes, I know I promised to fill you in each day on my adventures in Haiti, but on the third day the electricity wasn't working, and I was having so much fun that I sort of...put it off. Thinking that I would finish my posts in Boston, I returned and have been deathly ill for the past week. Now that I'm feeling almost better (or at least, less miserable), I will give you a some what brief overview of the rest of my time in Haiti, with lots of pictures. It's possible I'll get the days confused since they all end up blurring together anyways, so I'll just go by what I sort of remember. Since I've already covered days 1 and 2, lets start with day 3, a Wednesday, doing more of the same kind of thing we had been doing all week...
Mercredi
I started my day with an early morning lesson, it was technically a 45 minute lesson, but we had the room and the whole morning, so it may have turned into a two hour lesson. We then made our way down to the primary school to teach in our big, slightly rickety van. We actually found out later in the week that our van was an old UN vehicle, with a siren, sealed engine, and periscope (for underwater use), so we were really quite safe. After working with my students and practicing in between during a long, hot day at the school, I was able to unwind a bit in their large, chapel-like setting while the orchestra started rehearsals. That evening we ventured out to a grocery store to get some snacks, which were put to good use as we sipped rum and cokes and had chips and salsa.
Then we had the brilliant idea that we should go swimming at the hotel across the street! We found out that we can use the pool as long as we purchase something...a pretty great deal to cool off and feel refreshed. One by one, people started dropping out and got less enthusiastic, so it ended up being me and one other person. When we got to the hotel, they were super accommodating. Pool hours were kind of over, but since it was only the two of us, as long as we didn't create a raucous we could have access. They even asked us if we wanted to swim first and then have drinks, or drink first and then swim. We decided to swim first which was extremely refreshing, and then we sat by the pool with equally refreshing, yet very strong gin and tonics.
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| It was a very lovely night...too lovely for a Zombie drink. |
Jeudi
The morning began with our flute player and I heading down to the primary school early in the morning for a pedagogy class with the teachers. We talked about the importance of structuring a lesson, practicing scales, and gave them some resources where they can acquire sheet music, since they lost a lot of music (and so much more) in the earthquake.
As the week went on, I learned more and more about how the earthquake effected the school, and everyone who was there. It happened during the day while the school was in session, and they lost about 100 lives: both students and teachers. Seeing all those little kids at the school so full of life, I can only imagine how they could possibly live through such a tragedy; but they did. They have done their best to rebuild the school, but reminders of the earthquake are everywhere. These kids and their teachers come here every day, to teach and play and learn together, and there is such a wonderful, strong sense of community. No matter what has happened in the past or present, or what is to come in the future, these young musicians still come to school every day, and they still play Bach, Telemann, Mozart, Vivaldi, Handel, all on instruments that for the most part are shared, because not everyone has their own instrument...it was truly an incredible experience to be a part of.
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| What remains of the school's old chapel |
After our class, we sat outside and tried to practice up on this little roof deck area, which was not the most productive. It was hot, we were tired and hungry, so for the most part we talked and snacked on the crackers we brought while waiting for the string players to arrive from the Annex. I still managed to practice my excerpts though, and be a good student!
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| My babies on vacation |
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| Actually practicing. |
That evening, Pere David took those of us who were up for it (our director, flutist, violist, and I...we self-dubbed ourselves the "Quartet" since we had a "Trio" in the DR) to
Hotel Oloffson, a famous hotel and bar in Haiti to see some traditional Haitian music. It was so much fun. By the end of the night I finally learned my first lesson of being in Haiti: Haitian drinks are so much stronger than American drinks. We each had a few Rhum Punch drinks, which were served in little plastic cups with straws, and they were pink and innocent looking. Oh, how appearances can be deceiving.
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| Rhum Punch |
The music started and we went over to the next room to check it out. I'm not sure whether it was half an hour or four hours, but from the time the music started to the time that we left we danced (probably like crazy people), I lost (or rather, completely forgot about) my blazer, and our violist got his wallet stolen. Our violist had a surprisingly good attitude about his missing wallet, since he took all his major credit cards out as well as his passport. We then continued to dance all night, and then it was time to go home with big smiles on our faces.
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| Haitian music. |
Vendredi
This was our flute players last day, which was bitter-sweet, and a reminder that our trip was starting to come to a close. The two of us went down to the primary school early (which proved to be difficult after the night before) for another pedagogy class with the teachers. There was a funeral being held in the church so we found a room in the back of the school. After the class, she had to leave quite soon after, we said our goodbyes, and then I found myself...alone. It was the first time for the whole trip that I was absolutely and completely by myself. I was safe, because I was at the school which has guards and gates (for the family members reading this), I couldn't practice because of the aforementioned funeral that moved into the back part of the school, so I went inside the church that had cleared out since the ceremony and started to read and listen to music. It wasn't long until I made a friend.
The Haitian community was very welcoming and appreciative of MESDA group, and it was extremely easy to make friends, even if there was a language barrier. I made friends with a student who goes to the university, who spoke English incredibly well, and made fun of me a little for not knowing Creole. He then told me that I was to learn Creole, so that the next time I come that's the only language we will speak. I have a lot to learn.
The string players finally arrived from the Annex with my lunch, and lessons began. I had about three students that afternoon, which was pretty usual, but I felt so much more relaxed...whether I was getting used to teaching long days, or just had a lovely morning to myself I'm not sure. Probably both.
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| Two adorable Haitian girls, young flute players, that I hung out with. |
That evening, the Quartet was now a Trio, and we went out to eat with a friend of our directors. There was always something going on at a nearby restaurant called
Quartier Latin (Latin Quarter), and that night there was a band playing a combination of jazz and reggae. We also had pizza/pasta for dinner which was pretty darn good, and I avoided the rhum punch and had an ice cold Prestige instead. Since my roommate wasn't going to be around that night, I was the holder of not just our room key, but also the gate key. The violist and I were dropped off outside the Annex, while our director went with his friend to sort of see where things were in Haiti, and to check out some nearby cool hotels.
(To the family members reading this who were concerned about my safety, you should probably stop reading here...)
With every trip to a foreign country, or actually, just life in general...a certain mental list gets made called the "things not to tell mom" list. The following story was on that list, but it makes an exciting story, and may I remind you all...I am still alive, and it wasn't even that bad. So there might have been a slight miscommunication as to which key was the gate key. As I found out the next day, she meant the metal gate to our door, and not the actual gate to the compound. Assuring my director that I did, in fact, have the gate key, they had already driven off, and when the key didn't work...well, we were kind of screwed.
We started by checking and double checking both keys, because it had to be there, right? No. Then we remembered that there was a doorbell! We rang it. And rang it. And rang it. The doorbell consisted of a low-pitched hum and every once in a while a bell would ding...on the first level. People were staying on the third level. And since Haiti is loud at night, they were all wearing earplugs. Oh wait, we had the number of one of the girls living here! But that number was in a phone up in the violists room. But I had my phone! We called the director since I didn't have anyone else's number, but he was using his Haitian phone, and his american phone was off. Second lesson in Haiti learned: always get everyone's phone number...just in case. Wait I'm kind of small...what if you lift me up and I try to climb over the fence? Not only does that look super sketchy, but there were spikes and barbed wire up there. So there we were: two white people (one of us is technically Serbian, but still...we stuck out), locked out, in the middle of the night...in Haiti. I chucked my wallet over the gate of the compound so it wouldn't get stolen and we took a seat on the stairs, waiting for our director to get back. I was so lucky I was in the company of a.) a guy and b.) a guy who spoke French fluently (helpful when understanding Creole) because had it been anyone else I would have been scared out of my mind. It wasn't even 10 minutes before we were approached. We had also noticed that there were a few policemen directing traffic nearby, in case we had any trouble, and they would maybe help us. So this man walks up to us, and asks us if we were okay (in Creole). Yes, we're fine. He asks us if we need any help. No...we're good, thanks. Keeping our responses short, kind of avoiding eye contact, trying to stay calm even though my mind was on high alert. Then he walked behind us...and I was sure I was going to die. He reached into his pocket...and took out the freakin' gate keys and opened it for us. We had never seen this guy before, but he had the keys. We thanked him profusely, introduced ourselves, and entered the Annex. Yeah...we lucked out.
Samedi
The wonderful thing about the Haitian students learning music was that their parents were learning the instruments with them, and there was even a parents orchestra! We gave a class in the morning for all the parents, musicians and non musicians alike, on how to practice with your kids at home. We told a few stories of what it was like for us as kids to be learning music, and gave the parents some ideas in case they had any trouble motivating their kids. We had a little time before lunch (the lesson schedule was different since it was a Saturday), so we found a Haitian guide to take us around downtown Port-au-Prince, because Haiti apparently isn't safe when you're a foreigner. Yeah, probably could have told you that from the adventure we had the night before. Instead of describing to you in great detail what we saw, I have a few pictures to tell the story:
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| Symbolizing Haitian independence |
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| Downtown view of the mountains |
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| Henri Christophe, key leader in the Haitian revolution |
I soon learned the third lesson of being in Haiti: Jaywalking in Boston=fine, if you're cautious...jaywalking in Haiti=death wish, if you're cautious. We saw lots of other monuments, a museum for Haiti, and an unfinished tower that was meant for snipers, but remains unfinished because there is no army. There was also a big concert going on with a band called Chic Poulet...or "Fancy Chicken".
We returned to the school, and I had a short sectional with the clarinet and saxophone players in which they were rehearsing the 'Stars and Stripes' Sousa march. They were also working on the Haitian national anthem in another band. After that I quickly ran to the back of the school to work with two bassoon players on their parts for the Handel concert that was to take place the next day. After we finished, we head on over to the concert venue for the dress rehearsal at Auditorium Ste. Rose de Lima which was a beautiful church where there was housing for nuns:
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| Me, making use of the shade |
The grounds were beautiful, and the auditorium was air conditioned! It was here that we met up with two other students who were joining the MESDA team: a bassoonist and cellist from Harvard, two of the sweetest girls ever. Hung out for a while outside, since it was the greenest, and prettiest place we had been so far, and then it was a little too hot so I went inside to watch the rehearsal. The concert was technically called "Festival de Musique Baroque"...but we referred to it as "Viola Fest". Unfortunately since it was all baroque music, there were no clarinet parts, so I wasn't able to perform, but it was great to watch!
That night, Pere David took us all out to get some seafood. It was the second to last night, and with the end drawing near, and some new musicians there to take over, it was fun to tell them about the week we had, and what to expect.
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| The picture does it no justice. We finished three 40oz fish, with fried plantains, rice and beans, and appetizer with spicy coleslaw, and of course: Prestige. |
Dimanche
Our final day. We got to sleep in quite a bit, as we didn't have to leave until around 11. I spent the morning packing what I could, had some breakfast, and finally got ready to attend the concert. Technically I wasn't performing, but I still opted to wear black and white, since I wanted to look nice, and part of the organization. We arrived at Ste. Rose de Lima and the musicians warmed up. The cellist and our violist both played a short excerpt from a Bach suite, and then the orchestra came out. It began with two viola Telemann concertos, and one was a concerto for two violas played by two of the Haitian teachers that our string players gave lessons to. Then our violist and director, who are very good friends, came out and played Bach's Brandenburg Concerto No. 6 (two violas), and then the violist stayed out and finished with a Handel viola concerto, that was orchestrated by Henri Casadesus which was a gorgeous piece, and played with the utmost musical sensitivity and emotion.
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| On our way to the concert...11 people, 1 cello, a whole bunch of violas and a bouquet of flowers. ONE van. |
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| Brandenburg 6 performance |
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| MESDA Group after the concert |
Then we were treated to an afternoon at the beach. While others back home were freezing in the snow, and barhopping in celebration of St. Patricks Day, I went swimming in the Caribbean sea at
Kaliko Beach.
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| We stopped at a store for some ice cold Prestiges for the ride... |
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| Just wanted to see some palm trees... |
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| Beach, ocean, mountains, sunshine. |
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| I may have eaten all of this. |
This trip to Haiti was one of the best and most enlightening trips I've ever been on. Working with the students who were so excited, appreciative, well behaved, and respectful was truly inspiring. Seeing Haiti for the country that it is, and experiencing the culture and community first hand instead of staying at some resort was eye opening. And of course meeting everyone along the way was the best part. The students, the teachers, and the other members of MESDA group are people that I will be seeing again...some in the near future, and some in the more distant future, but the music world is a small place, and we are all bonded by our love for music.